I don’t even recall how many, but I have a lot of empty wave sequences from the time I shot today. I’m not going to try and pretend it wasn’t all that crowded, because there was a pretty big frothy crew out there, but still… all these empty waves!
Shine has two certain facts about him that are always 100% spot on! He slays some of the biggest and best barrels every time I see him out here surfing and he’s always got a great big smile on his face. Not a bad combo to have!
By the time I had to call it a wrap on shooting (and believe me I could have kept shooting if I didn’t have other things to get back to) Lesther was STILL out there surfing his brains out; which if my calculations are correct, he surfed for well over 4 hours straight.
Alrighty my friends. I’m off the next couple of days, but you’ll be in good hands tomorrow with HotstickHannahs. Lets hope this swell doesn’t go down too much, as you can see it was super fun out there today, and I would love for you to see some more of the same action tomorrow as well (hopefully). Have a good night and see ya back here mañana!