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We had some pretty good rains last night, so the super clean weather (sunny, cloudless, blue sky’s) were a real treat.
The water color today looked very similar to some other beach breaks a little further north of here, especially because the rivers were flowing from all the rains.
I could try and explain how funky, weird, oddly shaped and or just plain strange (in a very good way) the bars are here right now, but this photo should suffice. Walking on water!
There have been many different references made by surfers over the years describing what it feels like to get barreled. One of them is like being in the womb.
Or in this case Lesther smashing this lip.
Josh on the flip side was slaughtering the backside waves all morning with waves just like this. His sequences in shots from his wave count today was easily in the double digits.
Plenty of waves to go around for everyone.
When the tide started to fill in a little more over those sand bars, there were these little backwash things happening, kinda like this one.
No caption needed! \\
Thanks for stopping by on this fine Friday. I’ll be on the reporting duty for the weekend, so come on back for some more tomorrow. Hasta Pronto ~