Jackson IS the “Man on Fire!!!!”

My good ol’ pal DT walked down with this super beautifully SIKKKK band spanking new Tyler Warren custom Ultra (almost too amazing to look at, as in should be a wall hanger) glass on twin fin magic stick. If you know Derek, it’d be a shame to not ride this thing, especially with how insane the waves were pumping. Gettin er’ all waxed up and ready to go hunt down some killer barrels!!!

Super crispy clean glassy conditions, to go perfectly with his incredibly highly gloss/glassed finished board.

I’m telling you, it was working like a machine for that little slice of perfection window at this peak at the right tide and the right time this AM.

Heavy wipeouts, no matter what, you’ve always gotta get back on that horse; and that’s exactly what Derek did! And scored in doing so!

I was surprised to see Jackson out there going right more than left, BUT again, the rights were absolute FIRE!!!

There were some Keto sized diet barrels out there too. But they all looked dreamy as any barrels should!

Again, the short amount of shots (not posted) in this sequence doesn’t even give this dudes barrel time proper legitimacy of how sick and long this thing was.

Morning action and I can’t wait to go down and see what’s in store again mañana!  Hope to see you out there and for those who aren’t here, as always, THANKS for peeping in on todays surf report.  Yewwww ~

Remember, even if you didn’t make the highlights you can always look at the link here for all the Daily Surf Shots from each day, there might be a good chance you’re in there!

AND don’t forget to follow us and always check out our current happenings on our daily Instagram stories here NSR or my photography here Nica Surf Shots