Hola surfing friends, Happy Monday! Today was the predicted pinnacle of our Epic late November swell, and it for sure didn’t disappoint! From yesterday (where we actually saw the swell come in as early as the AM session and ran throughout the entire day) today everyone woke to even more amazing beautiful conditions and the swell was still pumping!

DeLo (Chris) putting on a little pig dogging clinic for da amigo Conrad as he paddled back out. Look C-rad, I'm gettng shacked too!!! Jajaja

The RM rights were where you wanted to be if you really wanted the BIGGEST barrels out there today (BUT ONLY if you were willing to pay your Nica taxes for this swell - because it was BIG and SQAURE and beautiful to watch, but the end section wasn’t for the faint of heart NOR the place to be if you can’t hold your breath for very long) but you were certainly going to get the shot, like Ciarin here.

And that’s when he got out and the only one left out there was Derek. All by himself out there to catch any wave he wanted. . . but he only wanted the biggest and the best! So here ya go surf fanatics! Enjoy this nice little parting sequence of the day.

I was talking with D on the beach a little earlier and he said, “Hmmmm - those rights, you see any of them makable”, since I was down there shooting a little before he got down there. Here he is taking off on one of maybe his 4th or 5th one…. well, let’s see.

If you’ve paddled out or over to this little section, then you know how sick D’s view is right here and what awaits him for getting to play with one of the heaviest places that breaks all along our mile long stretch of beach (from cliff to cliff). I think he’s probably now officially packed more epic closeouts here than anyone I’ve seen or shot over the last 11 years living here. And for the record, it’s not just a closeout every time either. Depending on the swell angle, I’ve seen people get the waves of their lives right in this exact location.

So with that. . . I was out. Hopefully tomorrow will be another good day of waves (crossing fingers that the swell will still be hanging around at least for another day), but either way, life is always good, especially when we get waves like this. I hope you enjoyed todays highlights and i hope to see you all again mañana ~

Remember, even if you didn’t make the highlights you can always look at the link here for all the Daily Surf Shots from each day, there might be a good chance you’re in there!

AND don’t forget to follow us and always check out our current happenings on our daily Instagram stories here NSR or my photography here Nica Surf Shots