Today was the least crowded I’ve seen the lineup in close to a week. I guess the big swell from days past exhausted many of the surfers here. I was stoked that the crew of 10-15 guys which were out this morning capitalized on the sets as they came through. The vibrant blue water color exaggerates the experience of getting barreled here in the morning. I bet this one will be etched into our hero’s memory for some time!