Like I said, some heads were probably turned the wrong way this morning. Other people, reaped the benefits. Who do you think is in the best position in this picture? Two guys walking to Pili’s Kitchen for breakfast, Mateo locked into a runner, mystery hombre shoulder hopping, or Derek paddling out?
I followed the previous wave all the way to the beach but no exit or anything cool on the shoulder hop. Turning back to the peak, Mikey took the next set wave. Wave #2 of the set and surfer #2 in the set locked and loaded.
Back to the northern peak with the rights. The focus is on the wave so the sign is blurry but the sign talks about the dangerous rip currents here. Be careful swimming for the next few days while we have a solid swell in the water!
Whoever this is, I have a photos of your two perfectly tucked in textbook right hand peelers. If that wasn’t enough adjectives, email me at [email protected] to get your full resolution shots of the sequence.
Take away from photo #3: almost there and this guy’s surfing has dramatically increased in the past year. Side note: he will be sticking them in the next 12 months (plus a little change to cover all of the 2020 season).
Alright guys and gals, we’re going to dedicate the last shot to one of two Los Perros bulkheads. We live in a beautiful place, don’t we? I hope y’all enjoyed seeing some sick rights and you’re finding a wave or two over your weekend. Stay tuned as the swell is only filling in. Hasta mañana amigos!